4 Highlights from 4 Days in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

Playa Chiquita, Costa Rica

Puerto Viejo is a charming and chilled out beach town on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, just north of the Panamanian border.

Beach cruisers are more prevalent than cars and the reggae jams that pulse from beachside bars lend it a distinctly Rasta vibe.

Visitors come for the surf and the sun, and maybe the jerk chicken.

Vendors peddle their handmade goods along the beach in the town center and the English language is surprisingly common, unlike the Pacific coast.

As a non-surfer myself (learned that lesson the hard way in Hawaii), I was most interested in the wildlife sanctuary I’d heard so much about from friends who had been there before me.

Our hostel was pretty awesome, too–we booked dorm beds in a place just outside the town (a 10-minute walk, that is) called Rocking J’s after seeing it listed in Lonely Planet as their “top pick” for Puerto Viejo.

We arrived after a quick one-night stopover in the capital city of San Jose and got right down to business; after all, we had a very strict agenda to attend to: chill, bike, beach, repeat (we do a lot of chilling, okay?).  Oh, and of course SLOTH.  See one, be one–not necessarily in that order.

The following were some of my favorite highlights from our four days in Puerto Viejo.

Rocking J’s

This massive open air hostel is a work of art.  Literally.  The entire place is covered in elaborate mosaics and murals and we never bored of wandering around and discovering new things.  Seeing as we were traveling during low season (it rained every day we were in PV) it was pretty empty, but since travelers can rent hammocks, set up their own tents, or sleep in one of their several dorm rooms, you just know it would be out of control during high season when all those hundreds of hammocks were full.Rocking J's Mosaic Rocking J's Hostel, Puerto Viejo Mosaic at Rocking J's, Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica Rocking J's Rocking J's, Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

Punta Uva

This beach is regarded as the most beautiful in town.  Situated approximately 8km south of Puerto Viejo, past Playa Cocles and Playa Chiquita, Punta Uva offers a more secluded and quieter beach-going experience.  With our rented beach cruisers, we pedaled out one lazy afternoon to find a long stretch of sand we had almost entirely to ourselves.  We wandered through jungle past spiders as big as my face (more spiders than I could even count, it was rather incredible), soaked up the sunshine and played in the waves.  It was a most beautiful day.  Even the spiders.Biking to Punta Uva Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica Punta Uva Punta Uva Happy at Punta Uva Beach cruising at Punta Uva Jungle road Golden orb spider, Costa Rica

Koki Beach

We only wandered into this restaurant in search of happy hour drinks, but once inside I quickly fell in love with it.  The decor is beachy and modern, and the walls are adorned with mesmerizing portrait photography.  We sat in big wooden chairs perched on a wooden deck facing the main street so we could people watch as we sipped our Tequila Sunrises.  We then chatted with an American couple we were seated next to who happened to be frequent vacationers to Puerto Viejo; after my few short days there I certainly couldn’t blame them for wanting to return over and over again.  Koki Beach was practically reason enough.Koki Beach, Puerto Viejo Koki Beach, Puerto Viejo Portraits at Koki Beach in Puerto Viejo Koki Beach, Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica Koki Beach

The Jaguar Rescue Center

After crowd-sourcing sloth watching spots on the internet, I knew I had to see Puerto Viejo’s Jaguar Rescue Center.  Our last full day in town, we taxied over in time for the 11am tour and were not disappointed.  We got to see a collection of rescued and rehabilitated rainforest species and learn the stories of how some of the animals had wound up there.  It was sad to hear that some animals are never quite able to be released back into the wild, but that is the center’s principle aim and they go to great lengths to ensure their survival when they are finally ready.  The jaguars themselves were a bit sleepy at the time so we didn’t get to see more than a glimpse of a tail hanging out of their little wooden hut, but the real highlight for me?  The SLOTH GARDEN!  Have you ever heard of anything so cute?  A garden of sloths.  It was heaven.Toucan at Puerto Viejo's Jaguar Rescue Center Puerto Viejo's Jaguar Rescue Center Sloth at Puerto Viejo's Jaguar Rescue Center Frog at Puerto Viejo's Jaguar Rescue Center

Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica, was one of those places I could have stayed for weeks–in fact, we met many expats who were doing just that.  They’d come to Puerto Viejo on what was supposed to be a short trip and just…never left.

Alas, we had more of Central America to see and were pretty darn excited for our first stop in Panama, Bocas del Toro, so we managed to tear ourselves away.

But I can’t say for sure I won’t be back.

29 comments

    • LaMochilera (author)

      I really did enjoy Puerto Viejo! I was a little nervous I’d find Costa Rica to be overrated but it actually lived up to much of the hype! Beautiful, beautiful country 🙂

  • Veronika

    Thanks for bringing back my memories on our stay in Puerto Viejo in 2010. We took our first surf lesson there and it started our surf passion. And we also visited the Jaguar Rescue Center and sloths have been my favourite animals since then. Loved it there!

    • LaMochilera (author)

      What a great place to learn how to surf! Sloths are totally my favorite animal too, they’re so strangely adorable! 🙂

  • Justine

    I’m almost embarrassed to say I never made it to the Carribean coast during my entire 7 weeks in Central America. And whenever I read posts like this I always start kicking myself for not making the effort. I assure you had I gone to Puerto Viejo I would have been one of those people who intended to stay a few days but just never left. It looks like my kind of place! Oh, and I’m with you on the sloths…they are the cutest things EVER 🙂
    Justine recently posted…Feasting My Way through Singapore – Indian StyleMy Profile

    • LaMochilera (author)

      Don’t beat yourself up for not hitting the Caribbean coast, we can’t do it all! I skipped the Pacific coast on this trip and I’m sure a lot of people would tell me I’m crazy. There just isn’t always time! I was just happy to finally see some sloths 🙂

    • LaMochilera (author)

      I actually had heard pretty negative things about Costa Rica before this trip and was really pleasantly surprised by every single place we went! San Jose was dull (and SO Americanized) but we were only there for a night so I didn’t mind. But I loved Puerto Viejo and just how beautiful and green everything was!

  • Beth

    Looks beautiful! I was in Costa Rica a few months ago, but sadly we skipped Puerto Viejo in favor of heading south to the Osa. I guess I’ll have to go back someday!
    Beth recently posted…Gaudí is Gaudy and I Love Him For it!My Profile

    • LaMochilera (author)

      I skipped a number of places I would have liked to go too (like Montezuma on the Nicoya Peninsula, for instance) but yes, we’ll both just have to go back! Plenty of time 🙂

  • Polly

    I HATED Puerto Viejo just for Rocking Js haha. We were there in late April and it was… overwhelming… to say the least. We left after one night and busted our budget for a private room!
    Polly recently posted…Dating a Russian woman: myth or fact?My Profile

    • LaMochilera (author)

      I can see how Rocking J’s would be overwhelming during high season, but luckily we didn’t have to deal with any of that. It was seriously chilled out when we were there…totally different experience, I’m sure. It’s too bad it left a bad taste in your mouth, I really enjoyed Puerto Viejo!

  • Mikaela

    I LOVE Costa Rica. I say, with only a slight hesitation, that Costa Rca might be one of my favorite countries I have visited. I didn’t make it Puerto Viejo, however. I studied Spanish up near Playa Flamingo, and didn’t get to travel within the country as I would have liked. Obviously I must go back! I’ll add Puerto Viejo to the list.
    Mikaela recently posted…A Lovely Afternoon in Downtown UlsanMy Profile

    • LaMochilera (author)

      Ah that’s a shame you didn’t make it to Puerto Viejo! You’ll definitely have to go back. I didn’t see as much of Costa Rica as I would have liked, but I loved what I did see, PV included. Such a chilled out countr, and just gorgeous.
      LaMochilera recently posted…7 Blogs I Love That Have Nothing To Do With TravelMy Profile

  • Esther

    SLOTH!! 🙂 It’s very cold and rainy here and I have a huge head cold. Three guesses how much I want to be IN your post, haha! Great pics.

    • LaMochilera (author)

      Aw that’s no fun! Being in Costa Rica would definitely make you feel better 😉

    • LaMochilera (author)

      People tell me it has changed a lot over the last several years…it is definitely still charming but it may be completely different to the Costa Rica you knew back then!

  • Megsy

    Wow what an amazing place – I would love to see a sloth in real life, very cute. That restaurant on Kiki beach looks amazing too. It’s been so long since I’ve ben to Costa Rica, I will have to make plans to return.
    Megsy recently posted…10 Foodie Photos To Inspire You To Visit Emilia Romagna, ItalyMy Profile

    • LaMochilera (author)

      I was so happy we got to see the sloths, not only in person but SO close up! You can see them in trees on occasion but this was way better. They are so adorable in a weird way!

  • Sky

    Heading here tomorrow! Well, first to Cahuita for a night then to Puerto Viejo. I actually booked my room at Rocking J’s too! Everyone says it’s a fun place.

    I’m heading to the Jaguar Rescue as well – but also the Sloth Sanctuary located outside of Cahuita.
    Sky recently posted…The Small Things – Riding a Bus SoloMy Profile

    • La Mochilera (author)

      Rocking J’s is awesome! You’ll have fun there 🙂 The Jaguar Rescue Center was really great too, I wish I had known about that sloth sanctuary (and/or had the time to go there) because that sounds like my JAM! Enjoy, Sky!

  • Leighanne

    great pics and info! My friend and I are going in Jan and I’m just curious if you felt safe there on any buses you took as well as when you just went biking around the area. Thanks!

    • Leah Davis (author)

      Hey Leighanne! I did feel pretty safe in Puerto Viejo on buses and biking during the day, but I would be a little more cautious at night. Enjoy!

  • Pingback: Making Plans – The Urban Glamper

  • Michael Webb

    Great article. Thanks for sharing. Pura Vida

    • Leah Davis (author)

      Cheers Michael, glad you enjoyed it!

  • Heather Maffeo

    Great article! so much cool infomation. I’m looking to plan a trip to Costa Rica and Puerto Viejo is on the list! I have a couple questions, you said you went in the off season, what month did you go? and I’m deathly afraid of spiders, are they really like all over the place in your face, or is it maybe tolerable for someone as afraid as I am? :0

    • Leah Davis (author)

      Thanks Heather! I think we were there in September?! And no, the spiders aren’t in your face, they are high up in the trees in their webs (a very safe distance from you most of the time). I’m an arachnophobe myself so if they were all up in my shit I’d lose it, too, haha!

Comments are closed for this post.
Inline
Inline