Tranquility in the Streets of Medieval Girona

Rivery Onyar, Girona, Catalonia

Those colors.

Those dusty reds and burnt oranges, those muted yellows and sandy browns.

As I crossed the River Onyar for the very first time, the sight of Girona’s well-known color blocked apartments was seared into my memory.  It was just the first of many visions that would endear me to this sleepy medieval town over the course of my two quick visits.River Onyar, Girona, Catalonia

Truth be told, I knew little of the city of Girona, one of the oldest in the region of Catalonia, before my arrival in Barcelona.  Luckily for me, at just a hop, skip, and a jump from the TBEX conference location of Lloret de Mar, I was able to explore its peaceful streets, if only briefly, and come to know its history, if only vaguely.

Perhaps little Girona isn’t always so serene, but during the month of May, this feeling permeated the streets.  The sun bore strongly, but a gentle breeze mitigated the heat just enough to make hours of wandering tolerable; every so often, clouds overtook the sky and shed a few merciful drops.Girona, Catalonia

The city’s rambla (every Spanish city has its own rambla, or walking street; the name derives from the archaic Catalan verb ramblar, or to stroll), wound alongside the River Onyar, a strip of small shops and cafes with outdoor seating, shaded and green, dotted with tourists from as near as Barcelona and as far as Japan or the US.

A quick detour to the Eiffel Pedestrian Bridge was a must–and yes, that’s the Eiffel you think it is.  This red iron bridge is the most famous of Girona.  Its formal name is Pont de les Peixateries Velles which, though I’m slightly suspicious of this answer, translates from Catalan to mean “The Old Fishmonger’s Bridge.”  Dubious name aside, this early project of Gustave Eiffel is worth a look; it was constructed in 1877, well before his tower in Paris earned him worldwide renown.Eiffel Bridge, River Onyar, Girona, Catalonia Eiffel Bridge, River Onyar, Girona, Catalonia

Venturing further into the narrow streets of Girona’s Old Town, I found reprieve from the beating sun.  It happened, also, to be an exercise in willpower as I passed gelaterías to my right, churros con chocolate to my left, and bakeries selling beautiful macarons on just about every corner.The streets of Girona, Catalonia

As the narrow streets began to open once again and the bricks beneath my feet were replaced with stone, I began the ascent into the walled medieval quarter toward the Força Vella fortress.  Built by Romans in the first century BC, this defensive rampart transported me back through time.

Continuing onward and upward, the gentle, bell-like sounds of fingers tapping on steel hang drums kissed the rose-scented air.  I wished I could stay for days–even weeks.Medieval architecture in Girona, Catalonia

On top of the stone walls looking down over the city, my eyes fell on red rooftops and fluffy green trees, and the occasional bell tower.  In the distance, modest hills (I’d hardly call them mountains) rose to touch the clouds.Girona, Catalonia

In the revitalized Jewish Quarter, now one of the city’s main attractions, I encountered both beauty and oddities. The cramped streets served as proof of only nominal tolerance of Girona’s Jewish community, the second-largest in Spain during the medieval years; in 1492, any Jews refusing to convert to Catholicism were forcefully expelled from the country.

Completing my carefully planned loop brought me back to the open streets along the River Onyar.  I paused again at the Pont de Pedra (stone bridge), gazing north toward the crisscrossed iron of Eiffel’s creation.Girona, Catalonia

I had merely been there for an afternoon.  It felt too soon to leave.

There was plenty more I could have done in Girona, plenty more history I could have learned.  In fact, I intend to revisit it the moment I return to Spain.

Should you find yourself in Catalonia, Girona is a city I urge you to visit.  Whether you fly a budget carrier into the Girona-Costa Brava Airport or travel an hour by train from Barcelona, stay for a day or two or however long your schedule allows.Forca Velle Fortress, Girona, Catalonia, SpainIndulge in tapas and a caña (pint) of beer. Investigate the ancient architecture with a careful eye.  Enjoy the peacefulness.  Relax.

Despite what many other travelers may tell you, Girona deserves more than a day trip.

Have you visited the medieval city of Girona?  Would you like to?

13 comments

  • Rachel

    I think I must’ve heard of Girona while googling for tapas. It looks beautiful, and that bridge shot is fantastic. Did you just wander or did you have somebody helping you explore?

    I also agree that the name “The Old Fishmonger’s Bridge” sounds very made-up… kinda like that scene in Anchorman, “Ahhh San Diego, which of course in German means…”
    Rachel recently posted…As of Late: Things I’m Loving + One I HateMy Profile

    • Leah Davis (author)

      I did have some help finding my way around. My first visit was a photo walk with a group of other bloggers so they had come a few days beforehand to scout good photo locations (hence the nice photos! 😉 ). The second visit I was with a local, the guide of our fam trip. That’s when I learned a bit more about the history…such a fascinating place! LOL yeah, somebody’s taking the piss with that bridge’s name for sure!

  • Justine

    Ah, seeing all of those amazing old buildings makes me realize how badly I’d love to go back to Europe. I can’t believe it’s been 10 years since I set foot on that continent. Now that I’m older and wiser I’d love to go back. There’s so much history and Girona’s buildings have me swooning. Girona seems like a great city to just walk around and get lost in — one of my favorite activities!
    Justine recently posted…Finding the Authentic Bali on Nusa PenidaMy Profile

    • Leah Davis (author)

      I kind of thought I’d get tired of cities like this, but I haven’t yet! I went to some other adorable little villages in Spain and I was just completely enamored with all of them! Yep, definitely a great city to get lost in! So much cuteness and charm around every corner.

  • Katie

    I’m loving these photos – especially your shots from the Eiffel Pedestrian Bridge!! Completely sold on giving Girona more than a day trip when I finally make it to Spain.

    • Leah Davis (author)

      Yay! You’ll love it, I’m sure! 😀

    • Leah Davis (author)

      Absolutely agree! Americans need to walk more in general…also, cafes with outdoor seating! We need more of those!

    • Leah Davis (author)

      Haha ohh Mandy, my day in Girona with you guys was not the best one for me! 😉

  • Kristen

    hello!! will be going to spain this coming may! i’m so excited and when i found your blog about spain I GOT EVEN MORE EXCITED!! just a question though: what was the weather like? do i bring clothes for the cold or for the warm?

    • Leah Davis (author)

      Hi Kristen! The weather was a bit fickle when I visited last year in May, so I would definitely suggest bringing clothes for both warm and cold weather. Not too cold, but a jacket that can withstand wind would be ideal and a few sweaters 🙂 Hope that helps! Enjoy!

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